Part 2 of the Guide to Troubleshooting Your Skin: Picking the right products for your skin

For the full guide, please visit the Guide to Troubleshooting Your Skin 

There are literally thousands of products and brands out there that it is truly impossible to know exactly which ones are right for you.  Sometimes the only way to know is through trial and error and that can get very expensive and also damaging to your skin.  This is why I've prepared a short guide that identifies some of the general rules of thumb that each skin type should follow! :)
 Normal Skin: 

You guys are lucky! There aren't a lot of products you require to keep your skin healthy and manageable.  A simple skincare line will suffice as long as you purchase items that are for "normal" skin.  However, just cause you don't require a laundry list of items to keep your skin clear doesn't mean you can't play with a lot of products and be proactive in preventing sun damage or wrinkles!  If you have normal skin, try adding a serum with anti-oxidant, anti-aging properties or a face oil to give your skin an extra oomph! Oh, and don't forget to add a photostable suncreen that is 30 SPF or higher.  Studies have recently shown that anything below 30 SPF does not provide adequate protection against UV rays.  

Dry Skin: 
If you have this skin type, stay far away from products that list alcohol near the top of the ingredient list, or better yet, try using only alcohol-free products.  However, alcohol can be used in products to increase the skin’s ability to absorb active ingredients so sometimes you can’t avoid it even in a very good formulation.

If your current moisturizer isn’t doing it for you, try adding a hydrating essence, toner, or lotion to your routine.  Korean toners would be a good place to start looking since their version of a toner is meant for hydration, rather than a final removal of left over makeup or dirt after cleansing like in a Western skincare routine.  Also, lotions or emulsions (typically used right after a serum) provide an extra boost of moisture for your skin.  But they are not meant to replace your cream moisturizer! Lotions are very thin in consistency and are meant only to provide added moisture and skin softening effects.

Also, adding a sleeping pack with dimethicone (silicone derivative) or other similar ingredients as the last step of your nigh time routine will help create a moisture barrier on your skin, keeping it hydrated throughout the night so you’ll wake up with smoother and softer skin!

Combination Skin:

This is probably the hardest skin type to care for and I would know since this is what I have! This skin type requires a variety of different products targeted at solving dissimilar issues.  Some combo skin types have an oily t-zone, but normal or dry cheeks.  Some have small blemishes while others struggle with cystic acne, comedones (black/white heads), clogged pores, and dilated pores...you name it.  There is no one-size fits all kind of product for this skin type, but there are a few common and effective ways to target specific issues in combination skin, including:

Acne Treatment: 

Use products with either salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, alpha Hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, or even retinol and its derivatives (Retinoic Acid if prescription strength) to clear stubborn acne;

Oily T-Zone: 

Again, using an acid based cleanser or toner with the above mentioned ingredients can help control oily skin;

Dry Patches:

Avoid using harsh products on areas with dry skin and try to use something with aloe vera or other calming, soothing ingredients.  If necessary, have two different products to treat dry and oily patches; and,

Comedones/Clogged Pores:

Use a gentle exfoliant; avoid using excessively gritty scrubs that can damage, irritate, and inflame your skin and look for products that are non-comedogenic and dermatologist approved.

Finally, if you have moderate to severe acne, especially along the chin and jawline, you may benefit from speaking with a doctor on obtaining prescription strength topical gels like Tretinoin (Retonoic Acid cream or gel) or Stievamycin (antibiotic gel with Tretinoin included).  Your acne may also be hormonal, so speak with a medical professional about hormone therapy (e.g. birth control) that can control excessive oil production and acne.

Oily Skin:

Cleansers or toners that contain salicylic acid, AHA/BHAs, benzoyl peroxide, and other similar ingredients can help control oil production in skin.  It is important though that you do not dry out your skin by “over cleaning” it with irritating chemicals.  Oily skin can get worse if you use harsh and abrasive cleansers or exfoliators since irritation of your skin can cause the sebaceous glands to go into hyperdrive and produce even more oil!! This is not what you want! What you want, inevitably, is to maintain a balance between oily and dry. Remember, oil is not bad for your skin! Your body produces oil to keep your skin healthy, it’s only when there is excessive sebum or oil production that you will run into problems.

You will probably need different products in your skincare line up for different seasons of the year since oily skin can change with the weather.  For instance, go for a lighter, oil-free gel moisturizer during summer months.  You should also avoid products containing silicones or mineral oil, instead look for ones labelled “oil-free”. This is particularly important when you choose make up since oily skin can get shiny fast under foundation or powder.  If your skin still gets shiny throughout the day, try adding an oil control primer underneath your make up or use an oil-control powder instead of heavy liquid foundations.

Sensitive Skin:
If you have this skin type, it’s best to avoid using products with irritating chemicals or heavy fragrances, such as menthol, citrus, peppermint, or alcohol.  Everyone has different triggers, but in general, it may be wise to avoid the following ingredients:
+Alcohol
+Menthol
+Thick Emollients
+Pore-Clogging Waxes
+Fragrance (even those derived from essential oils)
+Abrasive Scrubbing Agents
+Harsh/Drying Cleansing Agents
+Irritants (organic & synthetic)

Try to incorporate soothing and calming products into your skincare line up.  Products with ingredients like aloe vera or chamomile extracts are fantastic for sensitive skin.  Green tea and liquorice extracts are also great for sensitive skin, and they also provide anti-oxidant and lightening effects.

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