REVIEW: Missha M Radiance Foundation No. 23 Chic Beige

This is quite a nice foundation by Missha, called the M Radiance Foundation with SPF 20/PA++.   From what I can tell, this is the same foundation as the Missha M Signature Radiance Foundation, but has a different package design, one without the "Signature" word added on.  The one I have was manufactured on 2014.07.29, so pretty recently.  At first I was worried I got a fake one so I googled online and found several sellers with this version of the foundation, including many high power sellers on gmarket.  I'm guessing this may be a newer package design that Missha is moving towards. 

The foundation is encased in a glass bottle with gold accents, giving it more of a luxury cosmetic feel.  The foundation is dispensed through a pump nozzle which easily controls the amount I want to use. No messy spills or messes! As for colour, I purchased shade No. 23 Chic Beige, the darkest one available.  In total, there are three shades available: 

Like most Korean foundations, the shades are extremely light coloured with strong beige/yellow undertones.  The No. 23 Chic Beige is not suitable for dark skin tones in my opinion, and if your skin is darker than a NC20 this will not match your skin.  Truthfully, my skin tone is in between shade No. 21 and No. 23, so I  have to colour correct with a setting powder on top of the foundation.  With my setting powder, this foundation becomes a pretty decent match for my skin - not perfect, but acceptable.  

I've swatched the foundation below on my arm (keep in mind my arm is still quite tanned from the summer since I don't always apply sunscreen on them while out, and my tans take forever to faaade).  I've also swatched Chanel's Vitalumiere Aqua in 20 Beige for comparison.  As you can see, Missha's M Radiance No. 23 Chic Beige is a shade lighter than Chanel's Beige 20.  

The foundation lasts a good 5-6 hours on my skin before I need to worry about any touch ups.  Upon application, it fills in fine lines and pores that I have and provides medium, but buildable coverage. It also provides quite a nice dewy finish! 

Despite having an oily t-zone but dry cheeks, this product works well on my skin and doesn't cause any dry patches to stand out.  I also have acne and comedones, but after using this foundation for 5-6 weeks, I haven't experienced any breakouts - a huge win for me!

I don't have an English version of the ingredients, but I'll do my best to translate the Korean list some time next month and update this post accordingly.  For the time being, I'll provide my assessment of some of the key ingredients in this foundation as they are promoted by Missha.

According to Missha, the foundation contains mineral powder, botanical collagen, fullerene, astazanthin, and polylift (known as a "Super Vitamin" supposedly...).  Fullerene and astazanthin caught my eye since I've never heard of either of those before purchasing this foundation. 

According to WebMD, astazanthin is a red pigment that belongs to a group of chemicals called carotenoids.  It is a naturally occurring substance found in certain types of algae and has several uses, including the treatment of Alzheimer's and Parkinson's disease.  For skin, it can be used to protect it from sunburns and works as an antioxidant.  In short, astazanthin protects skin cells from oxidative stress and UVA/UVB damage.  

As for fullerene, it's a Nobel prize winning ingredient that has the ability to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and lighten pigmentation.  After some research into the ingredient, I've become quite nervous about this foundation.  According to several studies and articles, fullerene is a controversial ingredient that can become toxic when exposed to sunlight and other environmental factors. I'm not a chemist myself, but the use of fullerenes in cosmetics is something many doctors and scientists are divided on.  According to Dr. Samuel Esptein of the Cancer Prevention Coalition, fullerenes should not be used in skincare at all since - as a carbon based nanoparticle - it cannot be degraded by the body and therefore, can accumulate to toxic levels that pose a carcinogenic and damaging risk to our organs. 

I'm not 100% sure I want to keep using this foundation since the scientific community is so divided over the use of fullerenes in cosmetics.  I've already used this for about 5-6 weeks, and I haven't noticed anything wrong with my skin nor do I feel ill.  I doubt that using it for even several weeks at a time would lead to any of the side effects reported in some articles and studies.  I think you'd probably have to use fullerenes in very high doses for an extended period of time for any issues to occur.  Personally, I don't believe there can be serious consequences to using this product, especially as a foundation if you switch between brands depending on the weather or season.  But, of course, I haven't conducted any studies on this and I'm not a doctor or chemist, so you'll have to take my word with a grain of salt.  

That being said, it's still unfortunate that Missha had to include this controversial ingredient in this foundation since I've been quite happy with how wearable and compatible it is with my skin.  Oh well, I guess the search is on again for another foundation. 

	Efficacy	Price	Formulation	Design	Total
Missha M Radiance Foundation	4.5/5	4.5/5	2/5	5/5	16/20

You can purchase this product at the following, trusted e-shops:

Koreadepart - $15.88 USD (shipping extra)

W2Beauty** - $27.24 USD (shipping included)

Gmarket Seller - $16.32 CAD (shipping extra)

**If you are a first-time buyer at W2Beauty, you can enter in my sponsor code 25809502 when you register an account, and you'll receive a $5 discount towards your first order!

REVIEW: TONYMOLY Floria Brightening Peeling Gel

I picked this up from an authorized reseller inside H-Mart, a popular Korean supermarket with several locations in Vancouver, Richmond, and Coquitlam.  I was looking specifically for a chemical exfoliant and I made sure to ask the sales associate there which one she preferred and she suggested this Floria Brightening Peeling Gel by TonyMoly.

GIVEAWAY [CLOSED]: IOPE Air Cushion XP N21, My Beauty Diary Masks & Laneige Sample Set

Yes it's that time of the year (☆^ー^☆) 

REVIEW: Koreadepart

Another shop review! :) Koreadepart is a large online shopping retailer and wholesaler that sells cosmetics, clothing, accessories, and food that ships directly from Korea.  Founded in 2000, the company is headquartered in Seoul with several branch offices and warehouses in other cities around Korea.

REVIEW: Hanyul White Chrysanthemum Powder Serum

If you're looking for a gentle way to lighten dark spots, uneven skin tones, or acne scars, this is a product I highly recommend you try.  The Hanyul White Chrysanthemum Powder Serum has worked amazingly for my skin and I've recently just finished a bottle.  Within the first 2-3 weeks of using it, I noticed an overall brightened complexion and by the 8-10 week mark my freckles have begun to fade significantly.  

REVIEW: W2Beauty.com

"Welcome to Beauty," or more commonly known as W2Beauty, is an online Korean beauty store curated, owned, and operated by Alice.  Based out of Gil Dong, Gangdong-gu, Seoul, Alice sources and ships over 10,000 Korean beauty products, including top brands like su:m37, History of Whoo, Sulwhasoo, Laneige, O HUI, Missha, IOPE, Banila & Co., 3CE, and more.

REVIEW: su:m37 Miracle Rose Cleansing Stick

I've only been using this for a week and I'M IN LOVE!! This totally met all my expectations and more and is now officially on my HG list. Made by LG Household & Healthcare, LTD, su:m37 is considered one of the more higher-end skincare brands in Korea.  

REVIEW: Innisfree Green Tea Seed Cream

This cream is part of Innisfree's Green Tea Seed Line and contains 52.5%(!) green tea extract.  It is the heaviest cream out of the green tea seed line and is better suited for dryer skin types than the Green Tea Pure Cream.  Although I have combination skin, this product didn't break me out or cause excess oil and sebum production.

REVIEW: Sulwhasoo Evenfair Perfecting Cushion

This is a great cushion foundation for those who want a slightly heavier coverage but dryer finish. Some may argue that the coverage is similar to IOPE, but after trying them both I'd say that Sulwhasoo wins in that respect.  It goes on smoothly, quite flawlessly, fills in any dilated pores, and provides that signature, dewy finish Koreans love so much.

CONTEST CLOSED: Launch GIVEAWAY

UPDATE 09/21/2014

UPDATE: 
This contest has now officially closed! Thank you all to those who participated!

REVIEW: The Face Shop Clean Face Blemish Zero Clarifying Toner

This is one of my favourite toners and I'm already on my second bottle.  It's free from alcohol, mineral oil, or synthetic fragrances, so it's pretty ideal for most skin types.  The primary (and wonderful) ingredients include hyaluronic acid, Portulaca oleracea extract (anti-inflammatory), alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), and beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) derived from natural sources.

REVIEW: glow by Dr. Brandt Overnight Resurfacing Serum

I've been using this serum for about 12 weeks now and can really give a thorough assessment of its effectiveness.  Usually, I try to use a product for at least 8 weeks before doing a review, but I waited 4 weeks longer with this product because I was really hoping to see some improvements to my skin...unfortunately, glow by Dr. Brandt did not deliver on what it promised.

REVIEW: Innisfree Rosemary Sebum & Pore Lotion

The Innisfree Rosemary Sebum & Pore Lotion is designed to mattify oily/combination skin types and also unclog, refine, and minimize pores. As a lotion, this product should be used before your daily gel or cream moisturizer and after your toner, essence, or serum.  Since this is meant largely for oil and shine control, I'd recommend that you use this during your morning routine only.

Part 3 of the Guide to Troubleshooting your Skin: Weekly Treatments

For the full guide, please visit the Guide to Troubleshooting Your Skin 

Weekly treatments are an integral part of any skincare regimen, especially if you have some specific skincare concerns you want to actively treat.

REVIEW: Laneige Water Sleeping Pack_EX

I finally have some down time to post this review after moving cities (again) post-work term in Ottawa. After packing (and unpacking) my life into 6 suitcases, I'm ready to relax with my Laneige Water Sleeping Pack_EX!

REVIEW: IOPE Air Cushion XP

As a beauty blogger, here is the obligatory post on the famous IOPE cushion, not that I mind reviewing this product since this is something I truly adore using! If you haven't heard of IOPE or cushion foundations before then I hope you're excited because this product is SO easy to use, glides on flawlessly, provides SPF 50+ PA+++ sun protection, and a long list of other benefits.

So what are cushion foundations? For the cushion newbie, they are basically a compact with a foundation-soaked "cushion" and a separate anti-bacterial sponge used to apply the foundation to your skin. The cushion comes with a refill in the box so for around $45 you get two 15g cushions, including the single compact case with mirror. 

I've tried a few different cushion foundations and IOPE is a strong contender.  It provides the following functions:

+ medium, but buildable coverage

+ hydration

+ UVA/UVB protection

+ Brightening

+ Anti-wrinkle

+ Smooths out the appearance pores

 The ingredients are:

active:

ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 7%, titanium dioxide 4.15%, zinc oxide 9.8% 

inactive:

water (mineral water), cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, phenyl trimethicone, peg-10 dimethicone, propylene glycol, butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, lauryl peg-9 polydimethysiloxyethyl dimethicone, arbutin, propanediol, dimethicone, arcylates/ethylhexyl acrylate/dimethicone methacrylate copolymer, polyhydroxystearic acid, sodium chloride, disteardimonium hectorite, aluminum hydroxide, stearic acid, phenoxyethanol, polysilicone-11, triethoxycaprylylsilane, ispropyl palmitate, isostearic acid, lecithin, ethylhexyl palmitate, glycerin, polygylceryl-3 polyricinoleate, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, ethylhexylglycerin, acrylates/stearyl acrylate/dimethicone methacrylate copolymer, HDI/trimethylolhexyllactone crosspolymer, disodium edta, trimethyxiloxysilicate, methyl methacrlate crosspolymer, adenosine, nelumbo nucifera flower extract, hesperidin, tocopheryl acetate, panthenol, prunus mume fruit extract, silica, citric acid, lactic acid, glycoproteins, lipase, chitosan, fragrance, titanium dioxide (CI 77891), iron oxides (CI 77492,77491,77499)

As for the claim that it is "sweat proof" I can't provide too much commentary here since I haven't worked out while wearing this foundation, but since there are silicones packed into the formula I can see how this would wear a little bit better against perspiration. 

As you can see from above, this product has a pretty long ingredient list with quite a lot silicone derivatives that can feel a bit heavy on the face. I also noticed arbutin, which is commonly used in products to "lighten" dark spots.  The active ingredients include two physical and one chemical sunscreen, providing a broad spectrum of UVA and UVB protection.  Additionally, all three sunscreens are photostable - a huge plus! 

The major drawback for this cushion is that it separates on my face within 4-5 hours, leaving like a polka dot pattern across my skin.  It's a very strange effect that I've only ever had with cushion foundations.  The separation tends to get worse on very humid days in the summer when my combination skin can go a little into overdrive around the oily t-zone.  In order to make this foundation last longer throughout the day, I tried a gazillion different makeup primers with very little success. It might be the humidity of summers here in Southern Ontario or it could just be my skin type, I don't really know, but most cushions do not last long on me unfortunately.

UPDATE: After incorporating the OST Vitamin C20 serum into my morning routine, this cushion foundation actually lasts a full 8 hours on my skin before I notice separation.  I've also tested on the Natural or N23 cushion and experienced similar staying powers with the OST serum.  My theory is that the serum has reduced oil and sebum production throughout the day, helping my make up to last longer. 

The foundation shades are limited in variety which is very common in Korean makeup.  Usually there are no more than a few colours in either a pink or beige tone: 

I chose C21 or "Cover 21" which is the lighter shade of the two available choices for their full coverage cushion.  I have some hyperpigmentation and acne scars that I need to cover up and the IOPE did a good job of that.  For slighly darker and larger marks on my face, I had to add a concealer underneath to truly get that flawless, blemish-free look.  

The product didn't cause me to break out and neither did it clog my pores or lead to pesky closed, comedones.  In fact, I found that my skin was healthier after I started using it, which I attribute to the formulation of some really nice ingredients in the foundation. 

As for the feel of this on my skin, I did notice it was quite sticky after application and that irritated me a lot - like A LOT - especially when strands of my hair would get stuck to my face!!! URGH! It's like the sticky lip gloss problem and long hair! So now I always set the cushion foundation with either Makeup Forever's HD powder or Chanel's universal powder.  It helps to give my skin the nice matte feel that I prefer while still maintaining that dewy look cushion foundations are so well-known for. 

	Efficacy	Price	Formulation	Design	Total
IOPE Air Cushion XP	4/5	4/5	4/5	4/5	16/20

You can purchase this product at the following, trusted e-shops:

W2Beauty  - ($40.99 USD) 

If you are a first-time buyer at W2Beauty, you can enter in my sponsor code 25809502 and receive a $5 discount to your order. :) 

Benton Cosmetics Controversy & Contamination

Note: "Contamination" is used loosely here to refer to the alleged different types of fungal/bacteria/mold that have been discussed by Benton users.  There is some speculation that the problems are due to a lack of preservatives in the product.  I have not confirmed this officially with Benton that this is the specific reason.  There are many Benton products currently being sold that have no problems.  This post does *NOT* describe all Benton products as unsafe, contaminated, etc.  Please use common sense and caution when evaluating the skincare products you buy online! 

I was really hesitant about writing this post because it is not my intention to write a bad review to maliciously ruin the reputation of a company, particularly a relatively small skincare company.  As a former small business owner, I know how difficult it is to create something, nuture it, and grow it from the ground up.  And I do truly sympathize with how difficult it is to manage business risks that someone is facing for the first time. 

REVIEW: Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair Eye Synchronized Complex II

I have been using an eye cream since my late teens, and of all the eye creams that I have tried – ranging from cheap drug store brands to expensive department store brands – Estee Lauder’s Advanced Night Repair Eye Synchronized Complex II is by far my favorite eye cream. I started noticing very fine lines at the corners of my eyes when I was in my mid-twenties, mostly due to dehydration and exposure to the harsh winters in southern Ontario. I began using this eye cream approximately seven months ago, and now at the age of 28, I can happily say that those pesky fine lines that gave me so much anxiety have finally reduced. This cream has turned back the hands of time – if only for a little while longer.

REVIEW: Chanel Poudre Universelle Libre

Today, I'm looking at Chanel's loose powder in natural finish loose powder in  'Natural 30'! Chanel's loose powder is meant to provide a translucent finish and maybe a hint of colour - it's best used over top foundation to set your make up.  Don't rely on it alone since it won't give a lot of coverage! 

Part 2 of the Guide to Troubleshooting Your Skin: Picking the right products for your skin

For the full guide, please visit the Guide to Troubleshooting Your Skin 

There are literally thousands of products and brands out there that it is truly impossible to know exactly which ones are right for you.  Sometimes the only way to know is through trial and error and that can get very expensive and also damaging to your skin.  This is why I've prepared a short guide that identifies some of the general rules of thumb that each skin type should follow! :)

REVIEW: Naruko Apple Seed & Tranexamic Acid Black Spots and LinesDefying Night Gelly

Taiwanese skincare does not get the same amount of international attention as Korean products and that's really unfortunate because there are some really great Taiwanese products out there.  Similar to Korean skincare philosophies, Taiwanese companies focus on using natural fruit and plant extracts as their star ingredients.  

REVIEW: Nexcare Acne Patch

Lately I have been getting a lot of hormonal acne and have been using the Nexcare Acne Patch to dry out my stubborn acne spots. I have not seen these acne patches being sold in stores in North America, but they are very popular in Asia. I picked up a package of Nexcare Acne Patch from a health and beauty store while I was on vacation in Taiwan. The acne patches in the package I bought come in an assortment of large and small circular acne patches, and they look like beige, semi-transparent stickers. They are waterproof and breathable, and also prevent bacterial infections – great for compulsive pickers!

REVIEW: The Face Shop Cleansing Oil Balm

Cleansing oil balms have been all the rage lately, and I've been trying to decide if they are more effective than regular liquid oil cleansers.  I decided to test the efficacy of beauty balms versus my regular oil cleansers that just come out of a pump. The one I'm reviewing here is from The Face Shop and its star selling point is "seed fermentation" and "seed oil" and is recommended for all skin types. A balm cleansing cream, this product uses highly concentrated seed oils to remove and melt makeup off and out of your pores while simultaneously providing moisture.  

REVIEW: Jurlique Balancing Foaming Cleanser

This cleanser is best suited for normal/combination skin and Jurlique claims that it has anti-oxidant and anti-aging benefits. I wouldn't say that any cleanser can provide anti-aging and anti-oxidant protection throughout the day, since no one keeps their face wash on their skin for very long before rinsing.  However, a quick look at the ingredient list does show that the formulation is pretty decent with some very natural and skin protecting plant extracts.  Some of the star ingredients include: 

Part 1 of the Guide to Troubleshooting Your Skin: Know your skin type

The above chart has some great information, especially the care tips (click to enlarge).

1st: Know Your Skin Type

Most people have heard of the five common skin types: normal, dry, combination, oily, and sensitive. Generally, you can characterize a few common traits under each category.  

Normal Skin - your skin is not too dry or oily and requires minimal products to maintain its balance. Normal skin tends to have:

+ None to few blemishes
+ Is not sensitive to most products or potential irritants (e.g. fragrance)
+ None to few visible pores (skin has good elasticity) 
+ Even skintone and texture

Combination Skin - your skin experiences patches of dry, normal, oily, or sensitive areas, such as an oily T-zone (forehead, nose, and chin) but dry or normal cheeks.  Your skincare routine typically requires different products for different concerns on your skin.  Some traits found in combination skin types include:

+ Uneven skintone and texture 
+ Dilated pores
+ Oily T-Zone and dry/normal cheeks 
+ Blemishes (eg. comedones, acne, redness)

Dry Skin - your skin can be especially suspetible to seasonal weather changes and the skin can crack, peel, and become itchy, inflamed, or irritated.  Sometimes dry skin feels rough to the touch and produces flaking when make up is applied.  Dry skin can include: 

+ Red, rough, or scaly patches
+ Reduced skin elasticity
+ Dry wrinkles or lines
+ Dull and uneven skintone
+ Little to no visible pores 

Dry skin can be cause by or made worse by the following factors:

+ Genes
+ Aging or hormonal fluctuations
+ Weather
+ UV exposure
+ Excessive indoor heating or cooling (e.g. sitting in an air conditioned office all day)
+ Long baths and showers
+ Irritants in cosmetics and soaps
+ Nutrition
+ Exercise
+ Medication

Oily Skin - your skin is shiny and can produce that "slick" feeling throughout the day.  You may be susceptible to weather changes, especially when warmer, more humid seasons start causing you to notice an increase in oil production.  Oily skin typically includes: 

+ Overly dilated pores
+ Uneven skintone that can be dull or shiny
+ Blemishes and clogged pores (e.g. comedomes, acne, large blackheads, etc.)

Oily skin can be caused by a variety of factors, most commonly: 

+ Puberty or hormonal imbalances (mentrual cycle changes)
+ Stress
+ Weather changes (e.g. too much heat or humidity)
+ Heavy persipiration after exercising
+ Harsh and overly drying cosmetic or skincare products, including potential irritants

Sensitive Skin - your skin may react negatively to products with fragrance, alcohol, or other potentially irritating ingredients.  Sensitive skin can include:   

+ Redness
+ Itching
+ Inflammation
+ Dryness
+ Uneven skintone
+ Burning

Sensitive skin typically has several chemical and ingredient triggers which can be avoided if you know what your skin reacts to.  However, this can be a trial and error process where you won't know what to avoid until you've had a flare up or negative reaction. There are certain groups of ingredients that someone with this skintype may want to avoid in general, such as any products with high alcohol content, limonene, fragrance, or dyes, etc.