Wednesday, 27 August 2014

REVIEW: IOPE Air Cushion XP

As a beauty blogger, here is the obligatory post on the famous IOPE cushion, not that I mind reviewing this product since this is something I truly adore using! If you haven't heard of IOPE or cushion foundations before then I hope you're excited because this product is SO easy to use, glides on flawlessly, provides SPF 50+ PA+++ sun protection, and a long list of other benefits.

So what are cushion foundations? For the cushion newbie, they are basically a compact with a foundation-soaked "cushion" and a separate anti-bacterial sponge used to apply the foundation to your skin. The cushion comes with a refill in the box so for around $45 you get two 15g cushions, including the single compact case with mirror. 

I've tried a few different cushion foundations and IOPE is a strong contender.  It provides the following functions:
+ medium, but buildable coverage
+ hydration
+ UVA/UVB protection
+ Brightening
+ Anti-wrinkle
+ Smooths out the appearance pores
 The ingredients are:
active:
ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 7%, titanium dioxide 4.15%, zinc oxide 9.8% 

inactive:
water (mineral water), cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, phenyl trimethicone, peg-10 dimethicone, propylene glycol, butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, lauryl peg-9 polydimethysiloxyethyl dimethicone, arbutin, propanediol, dimethicone, arcylates/ethylhexyl acrylate/dimethicone methacrylate copolymer, polyhydroxystearic acid, sodium chloride, disteardimonium hectorite, aluminum hydroxide, stearic acid, phenoxyethanol, polysilicone-11, triethoxycaprylylsilane, ispropyl palmitate, isostearic acid, lecithin, ethylhexyl palmitate, glycerin, polygylceryl-3 polyricinoleate, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, ethylhexylglycerin, acrylates/stearyl acrylate/dimethicone methacrylate copolymer, HDI/trimethylolhexyllactone crosspolymer, disodium edta, trimethyxiloxysilicate, methyl methacrlate crosspolymer, adenosine, nelumbo nucifera flower extract, hesperidin, tocopheryl acetate, panthenol, prunus mume fruit extract, silica, citric acid, lactic acid, glycoproteins, lipase, chitosan, fragrance, titanium dioxide (CI 77891), iron oxides (CI 77492,77491,77499)


As for the claim that it is "sweat proof" I can't provide too much commentary here since I haven't worked out while wearing this foundation, but since there are silicones packed into the formula I can see how this would wear a little bit better against perspiration. 

As you can see from above, this product has a pretty long ingredient list with quite a lot silicone derivatives that can feel a bit heavy on the face. I also noticed arbutin, which is commonly used in products to "lighten" dark spots.  The active ingredients include two physical and one chemical sunscreen, providing a broad spectrum of UVA and UVB protection.  Additionally, all three sunscreens are photostable - a huge plus! 

The major drawback for this cushion is that it separates on my face within 4-5 hours, leaving like a polka dot pattern across my skin.  It's a very strange effect that I've only ever had with cushion foundations.  The separation tends to get worse on very humid days in the summer when my combination skin can go a little into overdrive around the oily t-zone.  In order to make this foundation last longer throughout the day, I tried a gazillion different makeup primers with very little success. It might be the humidity of summers here in Southern Ontario or it could just be my skin type, I don't really know, but most cushions do not last long on me unfortunately.

UPDATE: After incorporating the OST Vitamin C20 serum into my morning routine, this cushion foundation actually lasts a full 8 hours on my skin before I notice separation.  I've also tested on the Natural or N23 cushion and experienced similar staying powers with the OST serum.  My theory is that the serum has reduced oil and sebum production throughout the day, helping my make up to last longer. 

The foundation shades are limited in variety which is very common in Korean makeup.  Usually there are no more than a few colours in either a pink or beige tone: 

I chose C21 or "Cover 21" which is the lighter shade of the two available choices for their full coverage cushion.  I have some hyperpigmentation and acne scars that I need to cover up and the IOPE did a good job of that.  For slighly darker and larger marks on my face, I had to add a concealer underneath to truly get that flawless, blemish-free look.  

The product didn't cause me to break out and neither did it clog my pores or lead to pesky closed, comedones.  In fact, I found that my skin was healthier after I started using it, which I attribute to the formulation of some really nice ingredients in the foundation. 

As for the feel of this on my skin, I did notice it was quite sticky after application and that irritated me a lot - like A LOT - especially when strands of my hair would get stuck to my face!!! URGH! It's like the sticky lip gloss problem and long hair! So now I always set the cushion foundation with either Makeup Forever's HD powder or Chanel's universal powder.  It helps to give my skin the nice matte feel that I prefer while still maintaining that dewy look cushion foundations are so well-known for. 


Efficacy
Price
Formulation
Design
Total
IOPE Air Cushion XP
4/5
4/5
4/5
4/5
16/20

You can purchase this product at the following, trusted e-shops:
W2Beauty  - ($40.99 USD) 

If you are a first-time buyer at W2Beauty, you can enter in my sponsor code 25809502 and receive a $5 discount to your order. :) 

Thursday, 21 August 2014

Benton Cosmetics Controversy & Contamination


Note: "Contamination" is used loosely here to refer to the alleged different types of fungal/bacteria/mold that have been discussed by Benton users.  There is some speculation that the problems are due to a lack of preservatives in the product.  I have not confirmed this officially with Benton that this is the specific reason.  There are many Benton products currently being sold that have no problems.  This post does *NOT* describe all Benton products as unsafe, contaminated, etc.  Please use common sense and caution when evaluating the skincare products you buy online! 

I was really hesitant about writing this post because it is not my intention to write a bad review to maliciously ruin the reputation of a company, particularly a relatively small skincare company.  As a former small business owner, I know how difficult it is to create something, nuture it, and grow it from the ground up.  And I do truly sympathize with how difficult it is to manage business risks that someone is facing for the first time. 

Monday, 18 August 2014

REVIEW: Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair Eye Synchronized Complex II

I have been using an eye cream since my late teens, and of all the eye creams that I have tried – ranging from cheap drug store brands to expensive department store brands – Estee Lauder’s Advanced Night Repair Eye Synchronized Complex II is by far my favorite eye cream. I started noticing very fine lines at the corners of my eyes when I was in my mid-twenties, mostly due to dehydration and exposure to the harsh winters in southern Ontario. I began using this eye cream approximately seven months ago, and now at the age of 28, I can happily say that those pesky fine lines that gave me so much anxiety have finally reduced. This cream has turned back the hands of time – if only for a little while longer.

REVIEW: Chanel Poudre Universelle Libre

Today, I'm looking at Chanel's loose powder in natural finish loose powder in  'Natural 30'! Chanel's loose powder is meant to provide a translucent finish and maybe a hint of colour - it's best used over top foundation to set your make up.  Don't rely on it alone since it won't give a lot of coverage! 

Part 2 of the Guide to Troubleshooting Your Skin: Picking the right products for your skin

For the full guide, please visit the Guide to Troubleshooting Your Skin 

There are literally thousands of products and brands out there that it is truly impossible to know exactly which ones are right for you.  Sometimes the only way to know is through trial and error and that can get very expensive and also damaging to your skin.  This is why I've prepared a short guide that identifies some of the general rules of thumb that each skin type should follow! :)

Saturday, 16 August 2014

REVIEW: Naruko Apple Seed & Tranexamic Acid Black Spots and LinesDefying Night Gelly

Taiwanese skincare does not get the same amount of international attention as Korean products and that's really unfortunate because there are some really great Taiwanese products out there.  Similar to Korean skincare philosophies, Taiwanese companies focus on using natural fruit and plant extracts as their star ingredients.  

Tuesday, 12 August 2014

REVIEW: Nexcare Acne Patch

Lately I have been getting a lot of hormonal acne and have been using the Nexcare Acne Patch to dry out my stubborn acne spots. I have not seen these acne patches being sold in stores in North America, but they are very popular in Asia. I picked up a package of Nexcare Acne Patch from a health and beauty store while I was on vacation in Taiwan. The acne patches in the package I bought come in an assortment of large and small circular acne patches, and they look like beige, semi-transparent stickers. They are waterproof and breathable, and also prevent bacterial infections – great for compulsive pickers!

Monday, 11 August 2014

REVIEW: The Face Shop Cleansing Oil Balm

Cleansing oil balms have been all the rage lately, and I've been trying to decide if they are more effective than regular liquid oil cleansers.  I decided to test the efficacy of beauty balms versus my regular oil cleansers that just come out of a pump. The one I'm reviewing here is from The Face Shop and its star selling point is "seed fermentation" and "seed oil" and is recommended for all skin types. A balm cleansing cream, this product uses highly concentrated seed oils to remove and melt makeup off and out of your pores while simultaneously providing moisture.  

Saturday, 9 August 2014

REVIEW: Jurlique Balancing Foaming Cleanser

This cleanser is best suited for normal/combination skin and Jurlique claims that it has anti-oxidant and anti-aging benefits. I wouldn't say that any cleanser can provide anti-aging and anti-oxidant protection throughout the day, since no one keeps their face wash on their skin for very long before rinsing.  However, a quick look at the ingredient list does show that the formulation is pretty decent with some very natural and skin protecting plant extracts.  Some of the star ingredients include: 

Friday, 8 August 2014

Part 1 of the Guide to Troubleshooting Your Skin: Know your skin type

The above chart has some great information, especially the care tips (click to enlarge).

1st: Know Your Skin Type

Most people have heard of the five common skin types: normal, dry, combination, oily, and sensitive. Generally, you can characterize a few common traits under each category.  

Normal Skin - your skin is not too dry or oily and requires minimal products to maintain its balance. Normal skin tends to have:
None to few blemishes
Is not sensitive to most products or potential irritants (e.g. fragrance)
None to few visible pores (skin has good elasticity) 
Even skintone and texture

Combination Skin - your skin experiences patches of dry, normal, oily, or sensitive areas, such as an oily T-zone (forehead, nose, and chin) but dry or normal cheeks.  Your skincare routine typically requires different products for different concerns on your skin.  Some traits found in combination skin types include:
Uneven skintone and texture 
Dilated pores
Oily T-Zone and dry/normal cheeks 
Blemishes (eg. comedones, acne, redness)

Dry Skin - your skin can be especially suspetible to seasonal weather changes and the skin can crack, peel, and become itchy, inflamed, or irritated.  Sometimes dry skin feels rough to the touch and produces flaking when make up is applied.  Dry skin can include: 
Red, rough, or scaly patches
Reduced skin elasticity
Dry wrinkles or lines
Dull and uneven skintone
Little to no visible pores 

Dry skin can be cause by or made worse by the following factors:
Genes
Aging or hormonal fluctuations
Weather
UV exposure
Excessive indoor heating or cooling (e.g. sitting in an air conditioned office all day)
Long baths and showers
Irritants in cosmetics and soaps
Nutrition
Exercise
+ Medication

Oily Skin - your skin is shiny and can produce that "slick" feeling throughout the day.  You may be susceptible to weather changes, especially when warmer, more humid seasons start causing you to notice an increase in oil production.  Oily skin typically includes: 
Overly dilated pores
Uneven skintone that can be dull or shiny
Blemishes and clogged pores (e.g. comedomes, acne, large blackheads, etc.)

Oily skin can be caused by a variety of factors, most commonly: 
Puberty or hormonal imbalances (mentrual cycle changes)
Stress
Weather changes (e.g. too much heat or humidity)
Heavy persipiration after exercising
Harsh and overly drying cosmetic or skincare products, including potential irritants

Sensitive Skin - your skin may react negatively to products with fragrance, alcohol, or other potentially irritating ingredients.  Sensitive skin can include:   
Redness
Itching
Inflammation
Dryness
Uneven skintone
Burning

Sensitive skin typically has several chemical and ingredient triggers which can be avoided if you know what your skin reacts to.  However, this can be a trial and error process where you won't know what to avoid until you've had a flare up or negative reaction. There are certain groups of ingredients that someone with this skintype may want to avoid in general, such as any products with high alcohol content, limonene, fragrance, or dyes, etc.